Checklist - Spring Checklist
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AIR DUCTS: |
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Consider having
the air ducts in your home cleaned if family members suffer excessively
from respiratory infections asthma or allergies, there is visible
mold growth inside ducts or on other components of your heating and
cooling system, the ducts are infested with insects or rodents or
excessive amounts of dust and debris and/or particles are actually
released into the home from your supply registers. |
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APPLIANCES: |
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Vacuum coils under or behind refrigerators and freezers;
contact
an appliance pro for service if necessary. |
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AIR CONDITIONING UNITS: |
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Central air conditioning |
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Make sure the condensing unit located outside is not
covered up with leaves, newspaper, etc. |
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Change or clean the filters regularly. |
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Be sure all access panels are secure, with all the
screws in place. |
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Set the thermostat in the cooling mode. |
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Run your air conditioner for a few minutes now, before
you need it. |
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Scheduling
a maintenance call before it gets hot to have a pro check the
following items: |
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Check for proper refrigerant (freon) levels.
A low level indicates a
leak, to be found and repaired before
adding more freon. |
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Check all electrical components and controls
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Clean evaporator and condenser coils, as needed
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Oil motors as needed |
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Calibrate thermostat |
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Check Condenser for cracks |
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Check filters |
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Evaporative air conditioner |
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Hire
a professional to clean unit; check belt tension and adjust if
necessary; and replace cracked or worn belt. |
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Clean or replace air filter; clean condenser or evaporator
coils and condensate drain; remove debris from outdoor portion of
unit. |
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Wall and Window Air Conditioning Units |
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Have your unit checked
out to make sure it's working properly before you need it. |
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Clean dirt, insects and debris from the grilles and
cooling fins. |
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Replace dirty filters. |
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ATTIC: |
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Make sure all your gable, soffit, and ridge vents
are open to allow proper ventilation. |
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Make sure insulation covers the entire attic floor;
look into hiring a professional to add more to meet recently updated
building codes and reduce future cooling and heating costs. |
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Check to make sure your attic and/or whole house fans
are working properly; consider installing
attic or whole house fans. |
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CARBON MONOXIDE AND SMOKE DETECTORS: |
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Change batteries and check to make sure they are operating
properly. If you don't currently have carbon monoxide detector, consider
having
one installed. |
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CAULKING AND GROUT: |
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Inspect caulking and grout around tubs, showers, and
sinks; have
it replaced if deteriorating. |
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CLEAN CARPETING: |
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Have your carpets
cleaned regularly to remove the dirt and grit that can wear them
out prematurely. |
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DOOR SILLS, WINDOW SILLS, AND THRESHOLDS: |
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Fill cracks, caulk edges, repaint; replace if necessary.
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If you're strapped for time, a handyman
can accomplish these tasks. |
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HEAT PUMP: |
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Lubricate blower motor. |
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If you didn't have an annual check-up done last
fall fall, schedule one now to have a certified professional to inspect
the wiring, check belts and replace if needed, and oil the moving
parts. |
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Arrange for service calls before the start of cooling
season to get better attention and have more flexibility when scheduling
appointments. |
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PEST CONTROL: |
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Termites can cause thousands of dollars worth of
property damage before homeowner even realize they have an infestation,
and other pests can threaten your family members and pets with bites
and diseases. |
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Contact
a pest control specialist for a free inspection and evaluation
of your risk and hiring a regular service to keep your home free of
all pests, including insects and rodents. |
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WATER HEATER: |
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Every six months you should turn off the power source
and drain it completely until it's clear of sediment. |
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Also inspect flue assembly (gas heater); check for
leaks and corrosion. |
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If repairs are required, contact
a service professional. |
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BASEMENT AND FOUNDATION: |
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Check grading for proper slope away from foundation
wall. |
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Inspect for cracks and moisture and repair
if necessary. |
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DECKS, PORCHES AND EXTERIOR WOOD STRUCTURES: |
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Check all decks, patios, porches, stairs and railings
for loose members and deterioration, such as cracks, splintering,
decay, and insect damage; treat wood, set nails and repair or replace
rotted boards,
as needed. |
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If professionally cleaned, sealed and maintained,
it should only be necessary to refinish and/or stain your wooden decks
every two or
three years. |
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It is also necessary that surfaces be thoroughly
cleaned and dried before adding another coat of stain or protective
finish. |
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Remove mold and mildew, fungus, tree sap, grease
and bird droppings with the appropriate commercial deck cleaners (or
homemade mixtures) and a stiff brushed broom. |
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Clean mildew and fungus by mixing one cup of chlorine
bleach per gallon of water, scrub, and rinse well. |
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Sodium per carbonate works well to remove dirt,
mildew and weathered gray residue from sunlight degradation. |
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Oxalic acid will remove metal stains around nails
and dark tannin stains often found on redwood, cedar and oak. |
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Use care and follow manufacturers' directions when
using these products, wear eye protection, long pants, long sleeves
and gloves, cover surrounding vegetation with plastic, and rinse well.
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DRIVEWAY CRACKS: |
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Asphalt- Remove dirt and weeds debris from cracks,
spray with a
high-pressure hose spray, treat with weed killer and
patch with a special patching product. Hire
a professional if more involved repairs
are required. |
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Concrete- the only alternative for cracked driveways
and garage floors used to be removal and replacement but these days
there are overlayments that may be professionally
applied to cover surface cracks as long as the concrete is still
structurally sound. |
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EXTERIOR CAULKING: |
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Inspect caulking and replace if deteriorating, or
hire
a handyman to do it for you. |
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FLASHING: |
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Check flashings around all surface projections and
sidewalls, and replace
if necessary. |
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GUTTERS AND DOWNSPOUTS: |
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Clear/install/repair gutters and downspouts and
make sure the runoff is directed away from your home so it can't erode
the soil around the foundation or run into your basement or crawl
space. |
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Install gutter accessories to divert water, channel
underground drain lines into existing yard drainage or storm sewers,
or have
a dry well installed at the end of the drainpipe to slowly distribute
the water to surrounding soil. |
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LANDSCAPING: |
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Clean out the flowerbeds, removing fallen leaves
and blossoms to avoid potential fungus and molds. |
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Cut back and trim all vegetation and overgrown bushes
from structures. |
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Trim non-fruit trees before they start to grow and
both fruit trees and rose bushes before they start to bud to improve
their production. |
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Consider a lawn renovation to eliminate the brown
spots and crab grass left over from last summer and reseed bare spots.
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Contact a professional service about applying pre-emergent
to prevent weeds as soon as it starts to warm up. |
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Contact a county extension service or gardening
service for advice about proper lawn and garden care for your area.
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For all of the above items, a prescreened
pro may be your best bet. |
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PIPES: |
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Remove insulation around outdoor water pipes. |
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Check for leaking around the outside hose bibs and
evidence of rust or white lime deposits that may indicate a leak is
starting, and replace
if necessary. |
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ROOF: |
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Inspect roof surface for warping, aging, moss, and
cracking, making sure that shingles, shakes or tiles are sound; repair
or replace
as needed. |
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Inspect the flashing around chimneys, skylights
and vents. |
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Seal cracks or openings where water could penetrate.
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If you see significant damage or wear, contact a
roofing specialist to give you a bid on a roof replacement. |
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Check eaves, and soffits for signs of water damage,
or
deteriorating paint. |
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Repair, repaint or consider wrapping with maintenance-free
vinyl or aluminum soffits and fascia. |
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SIDING: |
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Inspect siding (especially on the south and storm
sides of the house) for evidence of deterioration, including cracks,
splintering, decay, and insect damage; clean, treat and repair as
needed. |
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Remember, paint protects wood and stucco surfaces;
postponing necessary painting will require more extensive and expensive
preparation (scraping, sanding and priming) and repairs before repainting
in the future. |
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Brick and stone: check joints between
wood and masonry. Waterproof,
repair or repoint if necessary. |
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Wood: Look for lifting or peeling paint,
splitting wood or areas where the wood grain is separating or
"checking" because water is getting into the siding. Hire
a painting service if the damage is severe. |
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Stucco: a chalky residue that rubs off
on your hand is evidence of oxidation, a deterioration of paint
or color coat that reduces stucco's insulating value. If the
stucco is cracked, this allows water to get in around windows
and doors. If this is the case, have your stucco professionally
repaired. |
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Trim: look for peeling paint on the fascia
boards, window sills and sashes that could allow water in to
form mildew and fungus on the interior of your home behind curtains,
blinds and window coverings. Consider
installing maintenance free vinyl or aluminum trim. |
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SPRINKLERS: |
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Check lawn sprinkler system for broken heads, leaky
valves and exposed lines and contact
a sprinkler service if necessary. |
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WATER WELL: |
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Consider having well water tested for safety. |
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